It’s often said that Australians are the only people who eat the animal on their coat of arms. While Australia is not alone—Danes eats swans, and Saudi Arabians love a bit of camel—there is something particularly interesting about the casualness with which Aussies both consume and wear their mascot. There’s a reason Anglo-Saxon Australians are often called “skips”; Skippy the kangaroo, is in many ways. the whiskered face of Australia, an emblem of its character. Then again, eating the national icon has always seemed, in its own way, a very Australian thing to do: impertinent, flippant, dismissive of pomp…